Meie pÀev Horvaatiasse
hÀÀletades osutus ĂŒheks vĂ€ga joppamise, kuid samas ka palju jamaga pĂ€evaks
Siiani tagasimÔeldes
tundub nagu too 25.juuni oleks kestnud terve nÀdala. NÀrvikÔdi jagus ja see
hostelisse saabumine oli eriti magus.
Nimelt pÀev algas siis
meie Sloveenia raadio seiklustega, lÔputu ootamise ja eraldi rekkatega. Nagu
eelmise postituse lÔpus mainisin, siis just enne Horvaatia piiri vÔttis meid
ĂŒks naine peale, kes taaskord ei rÀÀkind sĂ”nagi inglise keelt, Ă”nneks rÀÀkis ta
puhtalt saksa keelt, et suheldud me saime. Naljatilk oli ta ka kĂŒsides
politseilt tollis, et kus meil oleks hea koht Zadari poole hÀÀletada. Me
Annikaga vahetasime pilke, et mis ta teeb nalja vÔi? Tahab meile kohe trahvid
kaela saada. Igatahes oli ta vÀga tore, kuigi hakkas oma abieluprobleeme kurtma
peale seda kui me olime 10min autos istunud aga hea kĂŒll, sĂ”idu eest vĂ”in ma
veidi aega ka psĂŒhholoogi mĂ€ngida. Ătlesime talle mitu korda, et meie esimeseks
sihtkohakss Horvaatias on Zadari nimeline linnake lÔunapool ning nÀitasin
mapsist kohta kus me maha peaks minema. Sinna ristmikule jĂ”udes ta ĂŒtles, et
seal on liiga ohtlik ning pole bensukat ja sÔitis edasi. Mul oli, et suva see
bensukas, meil on vaja maha saada, ta aga hakkas paanitsema, et me ei saa seal hÀÀletada
(ilmselgelt ei tea ta kui sihikindlad me omadega oleme) ja kuna vihma hakkas ka
sadama, siis sÔitis ta edasi. Mingi hetk me juba ei teadnud kas nutta vÔi
naerda, sest me olime pÀris pikalt sÔitnud kiirteel tÀiesti teises suunas ning
no way, et me oleks Ôigele ristmikule tagasi saanud kÔndida. Peale 20
minutilist sĂ”itu tuli vĂ€ike kĂ”rvaltee ja ma juba suht kurjalt ĂŒtlesin, et meil
on vaja kohe maha minna, sest me liigume vastassuunas. Ta ise oli ka veits
ehmunud, et nii valesti lÀks ja vabandas, aga no elu lÀheb edasi, meil oli
lihtsalt vaja Ôigesse suunda saada. LÀksime siis maha taaskord keset kiirteed,
padukat sadas ning mĂ”tlesime, et hea kĂŒll lĂ€hme ĂŒle tee ja siis hÀÀletame oma
ristini tagasi. Esimene probleem ilmnes teed ĂŒletades. Nimelt oli liiklus
tagasi tÀiesti kreisi ning vahepeal oli tunne, et jÀÀmegi kahe kiirtee vahel
olevale muruplatsile ööbima, Ă”nneks peale mĂ”nda minutit saime ikka ĂŒle tee,
olles lÀbimÀrjad ning vÀga ausalt öeldes oli supper kopp ees sellest pÀevast
juba. Ănneks jĂ€i rekka suht kohe seisma ning sees olid kaks vĂ€ga toredat
horvaatia tĂŒĂŒpi, kellega saime 100km kaugusele Zadarist. KĂ”ht oli vÀÀÀga tĂŒhi
selleks hetkeks ning tegime bensukas söögipausi. Sealt saime oma fun tuju
tagasi ning loivasime juba oma lamekate saatel tee ÀÀrde tagasi, mÔeldes, et
oleme ainult 100km oma kohast. AGA nagu mainitud, siis see pÀev ei olnud pÀris
meie pÀev ning me seisime ja seisime ja seisime ja esimest korda reisi jooksul
oli tunne, et me ei jÔua vist oma sihtkohta ning peame öö seal samas bensukas
veetma. LĂ”puks pĂ€rast vĂ€ga pikka ootamist jĂ€i ĂŒks minivan seisma ja need
inimesed seal oli lihtsalt supppppppper toredad. Terve tee chattisime Horvaatia
kohta ja saime palju soovitusi. A la 10 min peale autole saamist oli tÀiesti
kottpime ning tekkis suur torm. Vihma peksis jubedalt ja Àikest lÔi nii et
taevas oli valge. Annikaga sosistasime vist 8x sÔidu jooksul, et meil ikka nii
joppas selle autoga ja et ei pidanud selle tormiga tee ÀÀres olema. Nad
tegelikud sÔitsid Spliti ja pidid meid linna ÀÀres maha panema, aga hakkas vist
kahju ja viisid hosteli ette Àra. LÔpp hea kÔik hea, aga ausalt see pÀev mis
algas öösel ĂŒksi lĂ€bi Ljubljana pipragaas kĂ€es koju kĂ”ndides ja lĂ”ppes seal
minibussis Àiksetormi ajal istudes oli ikka vÀÀÀÀga pikk.
Aga meie esimene
sihtkoht ehk Zadar on pisike linnake vÀga armas. Olime seal 2 ööd megamÔnusas
hostelis, kÀisime ujumas (vesi on seal niiiii ilus sinine ja saab igalt poolt
sisse hĂŒpata, aga liivarandu pole, et suht kivide peal on pĂ€evitamine)
jalutasime linnapeal ringi ja lihtsalt olime, sest ausalt öeldes, siis meie
jaanipÀeva tÀhistamised Sloveenias vÀsitasid suht Àra ning energiavarud olid
otsakorral.
Peale kahte
tsillipÀeva seadsime end Spliti poole teele. Seda kohta saime soovituseks igalt
poolt, kui Horvaatiat mainisime. Ka sinna jÀime kaheks ööks ning OI kui ilus
linn see on. Ma arvan, et ma olen tee leidmisega pÀris osav aga seal ei leidnud
ma meie vanalinna hostelit ka peale 2.pĂ€eva ĂŒles. Lihtsalt nii palju pisikesi
tÀnavaid, osad tupikud ka veel ning kÔik nii sarnased
Aga ausalt vÀga,
vÀga ilus linn. Split on tuntud ka peosihtkohana ning ka meie otsustasime
mÔlemad pÀevad kohalikku ööelu uurida. Taaskord sai tantsitud varavalgeni ning
tutvutud lahedate inimestega. Teisel ööl tutvusin ĂŒhe aussi koomikuga ja pole ammu
nii palju naernud, et mu pÔsed olid valusad.
Teise pÀeva hommikul
tahtsime olla kultuursed ning taaskord ĂŒle 30 kraadise kuumaga mĂ”tlesime minna
ĂŒhe kĂŒnka otsa linnavaadet nautima, sealt aga lĂ€ks vĂ€ike teeke ning mĂ”tlesime,
et lÀhme siis ringiga alla. Kaarti me ei hakanud vaatama eelnevalt kuna aega
meil ju oli. “VĂ€ike teeke” osutus aga 9km ringiks ning see kuumus ka kergelt
tappis.
JĂ€rgmine hommik
Àrkasime vara ning seadsime sammud praami poole, sest meie jÀrgmiseks
sihtkohaks oli Hvar, mis on pisike saareke 1-2 h (olenevalt transpordist)
Splitist. Kuna kÀtte oli jÔudnud 29. Juuni, siis vaatamata faktile, et meil
kohe ĂŒldse ei olnud energiat ega suurt peotuju, ajasime ilusad riided selga ja
vedasime end linna. Annika, vÀike krutski, mÔtles, et jube Àge oleks terve
tĂ€nava tĂ€helepanu mulle tĂ”mmata. Nimelt asusime ĂŒhel pisikesel kitsal tĂ€naval,
kus baarid asusid mĂ”lemal pool. Enne sĂŒdaööd hakkas ta ringi kĂ€ima ja mulle
laulukoori otsima ning kui kell lÔi 00, hakkas terve see vÔÔraid tÀis tÀnav
ĂŒhtĂ€kki mulle sĂŒnnipĂ€evalaulu laulma, siis tĂ”steti mind kellegi Ă”lgadele,
ulatati mojito ning sĂ€rakĂŒĂŒnlad. Alguses ma tahtsin sealt tĂ€navalt pĂ”geneda,
aga tegelt oli see ikka suppppppper Ă€ge algus 27.ks đ
Ka 30.juuni möödus
vÀga tsillilt ja hÀsti. LÀksime paadiga Palmizana
saarele, pÀevitasime ja tsillisime seal, hostelisse jÔudes tegime korraliku
junki Ôhtusöögi ning lÀksime pubirallile, aga seekord paadiga. Ehk tsillasime
paadiga ĂŒle tunni mere peal, kus oli tasuta jook, lĂ€ksime korra Hvari ĂŒhte
baari, aga meile seal ei meeldinud ning otsisime selleks ajaks endale uue
seltskonna, lÀksime paadile tagasi ja siis sÔitsime Carpe Diem nimelisse
kluppi, mis asub pisikesel saarel, kus peale selle vabaÔhu klubi ei olegi mitte
midagi muud.
ĂhesĂ”naga sĂŒnnipĂ€ev
oli supppper tore, pÀikseline, soe ja kindlasti meeldejÀÀv.
JÀrgmine pÀev oli
motivatsiooni suur null, aga meid ootas ees tripp Pulasse, vÀikesesse linna
pÔhja Horvaatias. Ja ka see pÀev kestis nagu nÀdala. KÔigepealt meil oli suuri
raskusi, et ĂŒldse Splitist (kuhu me pidime Hvarilt kĂ”igepealt tagasi minema)
vĂ€lja saada, mingi hetk olime jĂ€lle kiirteel, kust saime suure joppamisega ĂŒhe
mehe peale, kes tahtis meile rannikuvaateid nÀidata ja minna mööda vÀikseid
kÀÀnulisi teid, mitte vĂ€ga hea idee, sest mul seal taga istudes kĂŒll hea neid
vaateid nautida polnud, pigem oli sĂŒda paha terve tee. Aga Rijeka juurde me
kohale temaga saime ning minna oli vaid 96km ehk mott oli laes, vÔtsime
burksid, vantsisime rÔÔmsalt tee ÀÀrde ja sinna me jÀimegi, kuskil 45ks
minutiks, mille jooksul oli pÀike jÔudnud loojuda ning hakkas hÀmarduma. Meie
naljad asendusid ĂŒpris kiiresti vaikusega, ning kuna Pula oli esimene koht, kus
meil oli vaja aja peale kohal olla siis olukord kiskus kriitiliseks. LÔpuks jÀi
ĂŒks auto seisma ning kui terve reis oli meil autode ja juhtidega ikka vĂ€ga
nÀkanud, siis mitte seekord. Omavahel tegime veel nalja, et milline au
jÀrgmisele autole osaks saab, et nad on meie hÀÀletustripi viimane auto, aga
pigem oli see viimane ots pÀrit hoiatavatest lugudest, miks mitte hÀÀletada.
99l juhul 100st oleksime me sellisele autole “ei” öelnud, aga kahjuks oli see
1x 100st kÀes, kus vÀljas oli hÀmar, me olime seisnud seal juba pikka aega ning
oli vaja kiiresti kohale jÔuda.
Auto oli pann, supper
pann. Kui nad seisma jÀid ei olnud taga istmeidki, mingi katkine autouks oli
pagassis, turvavööd ei töödanud, auto oli supppper rÀpane, juhid suitsetasid
kordamööda non-stop, et meil juba jĂ€lle sĂŒda pahaks lĂ€ks. Juhtimisoskus oli
null, igakord kui juht pead pööras siis auto kaldus kÔrvale, sÔidu kiirus selle
panniga oli 90 alas 140km/h. Juhid ise olid ka vÀga veidrad. Annika sosistas
mingi hetk, et ta pipragaasi igaks juhuks kÀtte vÔtab. Hea idee, mÔtlesin sama
teha, siis meenus, et suurte joppamiste peale oli mu valvsus, mida me enne
trippi kokku leppisime, tÀiesti hajunud ning pipragaas asus meigikotis, mis
asus seljakotis kuskil. Hea kĂŒll, hakkasin seda gaasi sealt vĂ€lja kaevama.Siis
mÔtlen, et aga kui midagi siin peaks nihu minema ja peaks jooksma, siis mul on
varbavaheplĂ€tud, nendega ma kaugele kĂŒll ei jookse. Tenkusid ma enam kaevama ei
hakanud, jÀin lootma adrenaliinilaksule kui miskit peaks juhtuma. Ning kÔigele
lisaks sai poole tee peal mu telefoni aku tĂ€iesti tĂŒhjaks ja telefon viskas
pildi tasku. Annikal oli akut 3%. VĂ€ljas oli pime, tĂŒĂŒbid ja see sĂ”itmine
muutus jÀrjest kahtlasemaks, eriti kui nad pöörasid enne peateed Àra. Inglise
keelt nad ei rÀÀkind, kÔrvalistuja saksa keeles purssis miskit ja siis temaga
ma veits suhtlesin, proovides ise maailmarahuna nÀida, kuigi pulss oli laes ja
never ever pole ma nii hullult kilomeetreid lugenud. Ta ĂŒtles, et teevad
shortcuti. Telefon oli tĂŒhi, kontrollida ei saanud, jĂ€in teemĂ€rke ootama.
Ănneks viisid nad meid ikka Pulasse, kuhu jĂ”udsime ikka ĂŒhes tĂŒkis. Kohale
jĂ”udes tuli vĂ€lja, et tagauks kĂ€ib ainult vĂ€ljaspoolt lahti ka. Ătleme nii, et
pĂ€ris pingeline sĂ”it oli see viimane meil. Taavi ĂŒtles sellepeale, hea, et
esimene auto selline ei olnud, muidu oleks kohe alguses moti Àra kaotanud. Ja oligi
aeg veeta meie viimane öö Horvaatis, vÀga supper sihtkoht. Mul jÀtkub ainult
hÀid sÔnu, kuigi hinnatase on suht kallis ning hÀÀletama ma sinna enam ei
lÀheks, vÀhemalt meie jaoks osutus Horvaatias autole saamine kordades raskemaks
ja pikemaks, kui kuskil mujal.
Ma ei mÀletagi, miks
me just Horvaaatis oma hÀÀletamise lÔppkohaks valisime, aga mul on hea meel, et
me seda tegime ja et ma sain oma sĂŒnnipĂ€eva nii meeldejÀÀvalt tĂ€histada. (
siinkohal ka SUUUUURED TĂNUD KĂIGILE ĂNNESOOVIJATELE!!!vĂ€ga armas, et meeles
pidasite ja head soovid teele saatsite đ )
Plaane tegime me ĂŒmber
pÀris palju, sest esialgu pidine veetma Horvaatias vaid 3 ööd ja pÔhjas, kuid
lÔpetasime 7 ööga ja lÔunas. Kindlasti tahaks sinna tagasi minna ja veel rohkem
avastada, aga hetkel tunnen, et tegime ja nÀgime ka selle nÀdalaga vÀga palju.
Leaving for Croatia was
one of the longest days and seemed like this 25th of June had lasted
for a week. We were lucky at the end, but throughout the whole day we had quite
a bit of challenges. As I mentioned at the end of my last post then after the
trucks dropped us of in the petrol station and a woman stopped to took us over
the border, she started to ask the police, if they know any good spots in
direction Zadar, where she can drop us off and we can hitchhike from. Our faces
were pale, thinking if she wants us to get fined straight away or smth, we just
heard we can get 300 euros fine and now she asks an officer for an advise.
Joke! Thankfully they did not care much. This woman was very friendly, but
spoke no English at all. Thankfully her german was very good, so we could
communicate easily, but after 10 minutes sitting in a car, she started to talk
about her marriage problems. My german is quite good, but my vocabulary in
marriage problems, is hardly excisting, so I tried to lead the conversation to
anything else at all quite fast. When we reached to point, where we had to go
to another direction I told her in advance that in 20km, we have to go right,
so whenever she can, we would go out. But she was a worrying mother and since
there was no petrol station she kept driving. I said it doesn’t matter, we can
hitchhike on an highway as well and we have done that quite a lot, but she
still said it is not safe and kept driving while we missed the turn. Then it
started to rain as well and she kept driving. We saw that there is no way we
can walk back to that road so we looked at the maps and about 20km further we
saw a little road and asked her to stop. She still wanted to drive on, but I
already said it with a higher voice, that we have gone to the totally wrong
direction and we need to get out NOW, it doesn’t matter the rain or the
highway, we are just moving the wrong way at the moment. She was bit freaked
out herself as well, that she took us to the wrong way, but it doesn’t matter,
we just needed to go back. When we got out of the car it was pissing down rain
and we quickly realized that the fastest way to get to the right road is to go
on the other side of the road and hitchhike back, BUT the traffic was crazy, so
for a good while we were stuck in the grass area between the two highways in
rain. We were just not able to cross the road. Finally, when we managed to do
it, quite quickly a truck with already two guys inside stopped and they took us
100km away from Zadar. We were so happy that they saved us from the highway and
rain, and since we had no food that day we made a stop in a petrol station.
Walking out we were very optimistic and made our lame jokes when we got back to
the road, but we stood there forever. I think we were there around 45 minutes
and no one stopped. That was the first time when we thought we will not make it
to our destination and maybe have to sleep in a petrol station. It got darker
and darker with every minute. Finally, a minivan with really cool people
stopped and 10 minutes after, it was pitch black outside and a thunderstorm
started. Me and Annika whispered at least 8 times to each other, how lucky we
were to get into that van. They were actually going to Split, but I think they
felt sorry for us, and dropped us of in front of our hostel. That was the
sweetest arriving so far. As mentioned this day had lasted toooooo long,
starting with me walking home alone with a pepper spray in my hand in Ljubljana
and ended in that minivan during a thunderstorm.
Next two days we spent
in Zadar, walking around the town,
chilling by the sea and just relaxing since our energy level was zero. Fun
fact- there are hardly any sand beaches in Croatia, mostly just rocks, but the
water is so blue and nice.
After two nights in
Zadar we made our way to Split,
which was recommended by almost everyone when we mentioned Croatia. And I
understand why, such a beautiful city with an amazing oldtown and awesome
nightlife. I think I am quite good at directions, but even after two days I had
to look for my hostel with a google maps, because all the old town streets are
so narrow, tiny and look the same, but it is like an old maze throughout the
city, very very beautiful. One day we decided to go to a viewing platform and
there was a tiny road leaving this place, so we thought we are going to go down
on the other side, since we had time and it was a nice day. Little did we know
that this tiny road takes us to 9km track in a 33C heath. But yeah, Split was
awesome, we were dancing until the early hours of morning and met some awesome
people over there.
And suddenly 29th
of June had arrived. For that we woke up early and went to a ferry, to go to a Hvar island (which is 1-2 hours,
depending on a transport). And although we had no energy and were not in a mood
of party, then we still dressed up and made our way to the town, sinceeeeee after
midnight it was my birthday!! We were hanging out in a narrow street with bars
on both sides, when at midnight the whole street full of strangers started to
sing me happy birthday and suddenly I was on someone’s shoulders and was handed
a mojito and sparkling candles. At first, I wanted to escape, but to be honest
it was such an awesome way to start my 27th year. And many kisses to
Annika, who organized the whole thing! đ
My birthday was great
as well, we went to a Palmizana island,
where we just sunbathed and relaxed. In the evening we took part of the pub
crawl, but it wasn’t a usual one. Instead we were having an open bar on a boat,
while sailing in the sea for the first hour and then we went back to Hvar, to a
bar, but me and Annika didn’t like it there, so we left and hanged out with
some other people so long. Went back to the boat and then they took us to Carpe
Diem club, which is an open-air club in a tiny island, and there is nothing
else there at all besides that club. So safe to say, that I am more than happy
with my birthday, it was filled with sunshine, heath, drinks and good company.
Next day we had no
motivation, but somehow we had to hitchhike up to north Croatia to Pula. And once again this day seemed to
last forever. It took us forever to get out of Split (we had to go back there
from Hvar first) and we were so wrecked and so not in a mood of carring our bags
that day. Finally, we got out of there and the second car dropped us off in a
highway, where an older man with a sportscar picked us up. He thought it is
such a good idea to show us the coastal route, but me in a backseat did not
agree with it at all. I just felt so sick and could not enjoy the views at all
(although they were amazing, as much as I opened my eyes). He dropped us off in
Rijeka in a right road to Pula. We were only 96km away, so happy, motivated and
talking that whoever picks us up now, is a lucky car, since they will be our
last car in this hitchhiking trip. 45 minutes passed and no one picked us up.
The sun had set and it got darker. Our jokes were quickly replaced by silence.
We looked at our watches and realized we only have 10-15 minutes left before it
gets totally dark and then a car stopped. 99 times out of 100 we would have
said no, but now it was this 1 time, since we had been waiting there for ages
already. This was a horrible ride, something from a book “Why should you not
hitchhike”. Firstly, when they stopped, there were no seats in the back. I
thought they stopped to be funny or smth, but somehow he managed to get the seats
up. Then there was a broken car door right behind me, the seatbelts were not
working and in general, I am surprised the car itself was functioning. It stank
and was so dirty. The men smoked non-stop, so we both felt bit sick after a
while. Driving skills were non- existing, since every time he turned his head,
the car turned as well. He drove 140km/h in a 90 zone and one time when he
tried to overtake, we almost crashed with another car. Safe to say we both had
a little nervous breakdown during that ride. And not to mention the guys were
proper weird as well, spoke no English, thankfully one of them spoke a little
german, so I was able to communicate with him a little bit, to ask wtf is
happening. Quite at the beginning Annika whispered that she took her pepper
spray out, since this whole thing was too weird. Good idea, I thought, I should
do the same. And then I realized I totally lost my alertness, since we were
always so lucky with the cars and drivers, and my pepper spray was on the bottom
of my make-up bag, which was somewhere in my luggage. Okay, since it was a
weird ride I started to look for it. Then I thought that if something should go
very wrong, I am wearing my flip-flops, so I won’t be even able to run. And if
that wasn’t enough stupidity for one evening then my phone died, since my battery
was empty and Annika had 3% left. Sweet, that was the situation the the
darkness. I have never ever counted the kilometers so badly. One point they
turned away from the highway, although the signs showed that Pula is straight.
I tried to stay as cool as ice, tho my pulse was up high and asked why did we
turned and they said it is a shortcut. Honestly, I had like 10 different horror
movie scripts running through my mind. Thankfully they took us to Pula and then
it came out that the back door can only be opened from outside. Getting out of
that car was one of the happiest moment of my trip. When I told my brother the
story, he said lucky that it was our last, not first car, otherweise we would have
stopped our trip already in Estonia đ
But okay. Everything ended
well and now thinking back to it, I just start to laugh.
Croatia itself was
amazing and at first we planned to stay three night in north, but ended up staying
altogether 7 nights and 6 of them in south. I am beyond happy that we left our
trip so loose and were able to play around with the places and dates since
Split and Hvar were amazing. Although Croatia is not cheap at all, I am so
happy we chose this as our final destination and that I was able to celebrate
my birthday there. I would love to go back one day and discover more of it, but
I also think we saw quite a bit of Croatia in one week.